Debbie’s guidebook
Neighborhoods
Perugia Thanks to Perugina and its delicious Baci kisses, the city of Perugia is known for chocolate. An enchanting town that has medieval streets, modern shops, alfresco restaurants and two festivals unmissable jazz festivals every year: Umbria Jazz in July (www.umbriajazz.com) attracting some of the world’s biggest acts. And the chocolate festival in autumn. Park at the huge free car parking at, ‘Rocca Paolina’ and shoot to the top on the MiniMetro.
463 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Perugia
Perugia Thanks to Perugina and its delicious Baci kisses, the city of Perugia is known for chocolate. An enchanting town that has medieval streets, modern shops, alfresco restaurants and two festivals unmissable jazz festivals every year: Umbria Jazz in July (www.umbriajazz.com) attracting some of the world’s biggest acts. And the chocolate festival in autumn. Park at the huge free car parking at, ‘Rocca Paolina’ and shoot to the top on the MiniMetro.
Nearby towns such as Cortona (of Under the Tuscan Sun fame) and Chiusi were ancient hubs of Etruscan culture. Medieval hilltop villages and towns sit in quiet and glorious understatement. Churches, museums and art galleries ooze the spiritual and cultural passion of more than one thousand years and are crowded with the works of the Masters such as Signorelli.
499 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Cortona
Nearby towns such as Cortona (of Under the Tuscan Sun fame) and Chiusi were ancient hubs of Etruscan culture. Medieval hilltop villages and towns sit in quiet and glorious understatement. Churches, museums and art galleries ooze the spiritual and cultural passion of more than one thousand years and are crowded with the works of the Masters such as Signorelli.
Castiglione del Lago’s, 'Castello di Leone' castle, stands proudly on the hill still casting a protective eye over the lake. It is a spectacular historical backdrop to all the modern day comings and goings of the area.
The Italian Renaissance is served with large helpings of ancient Etruscan and medieval art and architecture. And if you are all cultured out? Blue and white ferries carry travellers to the lake’s tranquil islands Maggiore and Polvese for nature walks, swimming and, of course, lunch.
During the summer months watch out for al fresco movie nights within the castle walls at the ROCCACINEMA which you can google.
Fantastic restaurants, the duelling tasting shops and the castle fortress all make for an lovely day out.
In the 'new' part of town you will find COOP supermarket which is open every day.
156 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Castiglione Del Lago
9 Viale TrappesCastiglione del Lago’s, 'Castello di Leone' castle, stands proudly on the hill still casting a protective eye over the lake. It is a spectacular historical backdrop to all the modern day comings and goings of the area.
The Italian Renaissance is served with large helpings of ancient Etruscan and medieval art and architecture. And if you are all cultured out? Blue and white ferries carry travellers to the lake’s tranquil islands Maggiore and Polvese for nature walks, swimming and, of course, lunch.
During the summer months watch out for al fresco movie nights within the castle walls at the ROCCACINEMA which you can google.
Fantastic restaurants, the duelling tasting shops and the castle fortress all make for an lovely day out.
In the 'new' part of town you will find COOP supermarket which is open every day.
Assisi doesn’t have to be good for food. Assisi has the Basilica of Saint Francis, Patron Saint of Italy. By the time you get to Assisi from the every-day gourmet destinations everywhere in Umbria the restaurants seem decidedly touristy. But hey – the Duomo is decorated with masterpieces by Giotto, Lorenzetti and Simone Martini. Maybe after you’ve seen the skin of his stigmata, enshrined lovingly in gold, you wont be hungry anyway. Infused with the energy of centuries of pilgrims and prayer the Basilica is so thick with spirit; you could paste that on pane. Do not miss the Basilica of Santa Chiara. She exchanged her rich dresses for a sack that is still on show. The massive 14 Century fortress, Rocca Maggiore offers spectacular views over the valley below.
To park your car Parceggio Porta Mojano is big and easy to access town
594 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Assisi
Assisi doesn’t have to be good for food. Assisi has the Basilica of Saint Francis, Patron Saint of Italy. By the time you get to Assisi from the every-day gourmet destinations everywhere in Umbria the restaurants seem decidedly touristy. But hey – the Duomo is decorated with masterpieces by Giotto, Lorenzetti and Simone Martini. Maybe after you’ve seen the skin of his stigmata, enshrined lovingly in gold, you wont be hungry anyway. Infused with the energy of centuries of pilgrims and prayer the Basilica is so thick with spirit; you could paste that on pane. Do not miss the Basilica of Santa Chiara. She exchanged her rich dresses for a sack that is still on show. The massive 14 Century fortress, Rocca Maggiore offers spectacular views over the valley below.
To park your car Parceggio Porta Mojano is big and easy to access town
Panicale
Passignano sul Trasimeno
The most vibrant village on the Umbria Tuscany border. The name means little gem or little joy and both meaning describe it perfectly
Frazione Gioiella
Frazione GioiellaThe most vibrant village on the Umbria Tuscany border. The name means little gem or little joy and both meaning describe it perfectly
Sightseeing
Civita di Bagnoregio, the so called ‘dying city’ is another worth stop while near Orvieto. A charming medieval city which - except for the façade of the church – remains utterly untouched by the Renaissance. First built about 2,500 years ago by the Etruscans atop a tall column of volcanic tufa. One entrance was connected by a donkey path. The soft clay that made up much of the base of the town started to erode over the years and in the 17th century people moved to the more stable town. The long bridge that now joins Civita is steep—and it gets steeper as it rises.
211 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Civita di Bagnoregio
Civita di Bagnoregio, the so called ‘dying city’ is another worth stop while near Orvieto. A charming medieval city which - except for the façade of the church – remains utterly untouched by the Renaissance. First built about 2,500 years ago by the Etruscans atop a tall column of volcanic tufa. One entrance was connected by a donkey path. The soft clay that made up much of the base of the town started to erode over the years and in the 17th century people moved to the more stable town. The long bridge that now joins Civita is steep—and it gets steeper as it rises.
Orvieto and Lago di Bolsena. Orvieto is one such Etruscan place. The town sits on a massive tufa rock jutting out of the earth like a gigantic loaf of pane. Steep walls rise from the Tiber River Valley. A grand old dame of undiminished beauty, the massive Gothic-Romanesque Orvieto Cathedral is the jewel in the crown. Orvieto’s most popular Etruscan legacy is a cheeky dry white wine or two. Grapes like Trebbiano, Grechetto and Orvieto Classico DOC.
Before you enjoy too much of that though - not to be missed is the aforementioned Duomo of Orvieto - and the adjacent Museo d’art. The Etruscan caves (Take the guided tour: Orvieto Underground) which were burrowed under the city for wells, wine storage and the odd pigeon. (Palomba meat prepared with red wine, black olives and spices is a delicacy in Orvieto).
Nearby, Bolsena Lake, the largest volcanic lake in Europe, is a hidden little reprise from the summer heat atop the tufa. Think sandy beaches, trattorias selling delicious local treats.
390 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Orvieto
Orvieto and Lago di Bolsena. Orvieto is one such Etruscan place. The town sits on a massive tufa rock jutting out of the earth like a gigantic loaf of pane. Steep walls rise from the Tiber River Valley. A grand old dame of undiminished beauty, the massive Gothic-Romanesque Orvieto Cathedral is the jewel in the crown. Orvieto’s most popular Etruscan legacy is a cheeky dry white wine or two. Grapes like Trebbiano, Grechetto and Orvieto Classico DOC.
Before you enjoy too much of that though - not to be missed is the aforementioned Duomo of Orvieto - and the adjacent Museo d’art. The Etruscan caves (Take the guided tour: Orvieto Underground) which were burrowed under the city for wells, wine storage and the odd pigeon. (Palomba meat prepared with red wine, black olives and spices is a delicacy in Orvieto).
Nearby, Bolsena Lake, the largest volcanic lake in Europe, is a hidden little reprise from the summer heat atop the tufa. Think sandy beaches, trattorias selling delicious local treats.
Val d’Orcia
The Val d’Orcia has Southern Tuscany’s quintessential Renaissance-painting landscape. Ravishing hills wiggle down to flat chalk plains. Sunlight casts curious shadows over her creamy mounds, fading green curves and statuesque ceder trees.
A Unesco World Heritage site, the valley is bordered in the north by Siena, and to the south by Mount Amiata. For centuries the area has attracted the artistic, entranced the romantic and satiated the hungry traveller. The valley’s picturesque towns of Pienza and Montalcino are not only quaint and ancient- but they are veritable foodie super-powers.
Val d'Orcia, Tuscany, Italy
Val d’Orcia
The Val d’Orcia has Southern Tuscany’s quintessential Renaissance-painting landscape. Ravishing hills wiggle down to flat chalk plains. Sunlight casts curious shadows over her creamy mounds, fading green curves and statuesque ceder trees.
A Unesco World Heritage site, the valley is bordered in the north by Siena, and to the south by Mount Amiata. For centuries the area has attracted the artistic, entranced the romantic and satiated the hungry traveller. The valley’s picturesque towns of Pienza and Montalcino are not only quaint and ancient- but they are veritable foodie super-powers.
To this day Pienza remains a quintessential Renaissance town. It is a time capsule of palaces, churches, piazzas and well-ordered streets. Largely re-built in 1459, when Pope Pius II, turned his hometown into Italy’s first ‘model town.’ You will also see lots shops selling of Pecorino cheese as Pienza is the pecorino-capital of Tuscany.
555 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Pienza
To this day Pienza remains a quintessential Renaissance town. It is a time capsule of palaces, churches, piazzas and well-ordered streets. Largely re-built in 1459, when Pope Pius II, turned his hometown into Italy’s first ‘model town.’ You will also see lots shops selling of Pecorino cheese as Pienza is the pecorino-capital of Tuscany.
Montepulciano
Montalcino
Isola Maggiore
Siena
Florence
Food scene
Organic ‘cheese farm,’ Podere il Casale is the place in Pienza to find out more about Pecorino. Ulisse Brandli, originally from Switzerland, came to this region with just his wife Sandra and their shared dream to grow all their own food. Armed with a vast experience of punk rock music and yachting the determined couple learned how to work the land from scratch- by trial and error- and a bit of help from their neighbours. Today their guest-apartments are regularly full, and to get a table for a delicious organic lunch at their restaurant, you must reserve.
Ulisse invited me to follow his daily routine. I found him at 6.30am; surrounded by a flock of trusty ewes. “Francesca, Margherita!” Ulisse called two of his ‘girls’ over by name. They baa-ed and maa-ed; their long ears flapped and oval udders seemed ready to burst as they jostled to be milked by hand. Stopping short of asking to have a squeeze, I listened as Ulisse tells me more about Pecorino cheese. “Depending on how long the cheese has been aged and even the area of the room it has been aged in- the flavor and texture will change. Matured cheese is called stagionato and is harder, crumbly and has a nutty flavour. Meanwhile semi-stagionato and fresco will be softer and milder. But even the mild cheese is stronger in flavour than cows-milk cheese.”
The aging room was another world- lined with a vast array of cheeses in ash, cheeses in walnut leaves, cheeses with blue mold and my own personal favorite- the drunken cheese (flavoured with grape-skin left over from making wine).
Must try: Pecorino Stagionato, served with pears or drizzled with strong chestnut honey. Pecorino can be used to finish pasta dishes as an alternative to Parmegano.
Via Podere Il Casale
Via Podere Il CasaleOrganic ‘cheese farm,’ Podere il Casale is the place in Pienza to find out more about Pecorino. Ulisse Brandli, originally from Switzerland, came to this region with just his wife Sandra and their shared dream to grow all their own food. Armed with a vast experience of punk rock music and yachting the determined couple learned how to work the land from scratch- by trial and error- and a bit of help from their neighbours. Today their guest-apartments are regularly full, and to get a table for a delicious organic lunch at their restaurant, you must reserve.
Ulisse invited me to follow his daily routine. I found him at 6.30am; surrounded by a flock of trusty ewes. “Francesca, Margherita!” Ulisse called two of his ‘girls’ over by name. They baa-ed and maa-ed; their long ears flapped and oval udders seemed ready to burst as they jostled to be milked by hand. Stopping short of asking to have a squeeze, I listened as Ulisse tells me more about Pecorino cheese. “Depending on how long the cheese has been aged and even the area of the room it has been aged in- the flavor and texture will change. Matured cheese is called stagionato and is harder, crumbly and has a nutty flavour. Meanwhile semi-stagionato and fresco will be softer and milder. But even the mild cheese is stronger in flavour than cows-milk cheese.”
The aging room was another world- lined with a vast array of cheeses in ash, cheeses in walnut leaves, cheeses with blue mold and my own personal favorite- the drunken cheese (flavoured with grape-skin left over from making wine).
Must try: Pecorino Stagionato, served with pears or drizzled with strong chestnut honey. Pecorino can be used to finish pasta dishes as an alternative to Parmegano.
Hot springs
Natural hot spring adventures
Bagni San Filippo sits in the dramatic rolling hills of Val d’Orcia, in the foothills of Mount Amiata.
The town was named after prior Filippo Benizi who hid here in the 13th century to escape election as Pope.
The natural springs “Fosso Bianco”, are free. My best advice is to park up and follow people down a small path where you find many small pools rich in calcium, sulfur, sulfur bicarbonate, and magnesium.
The Medicis frequented these baths
184 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Bagni San Filippo
Bagni San Filippo sits in the dramatic rolling hills of Val d’Orcia, in the foothills of Mount Amiata.
The town was named after prior Filippo Benizi who hid here in the 13th century to escape election as Pope.
The natural springs “Fosso Bianco”, are free. My best advice is to park up and follow people down a small path where you find many small pools rich in calcium, sulfur, sulfur bicarbonate, and magnesium.
The Medicis frequented these baths
A small village with a big old rectangular stone pool instead of a piazza in the heart of Val d’Orcia.
These hot springs were discovered and used sice Roman times.
303 Recomendado por los habitantes de la zona
Bagno Vignoni
A small village with a big old rectangular stone pool instead of a piazza in the heart of Val d’Orcia.
These hot springs were discovered and used sice Roman times.
Consejos para la ciudad
No te pierdas
Farmer's Market
Local weekly morning markets in Umbria:
Monday – Santa Maria degli Angeli
Tuesday – Gubbio
Wednesday – Spello
Castiglione del Lago - Wednesday**
Panicale - Friday**
Citta della Pieve - Saturday**
Passignano - Saturday**
**These towns you should try to visit!
Perugia - Saturday*
Assisi - Saturday*
Cortona - Saturday*
No te pierdas
Antique markets
Antique and Bric a Brac markets in Umbria (monthly):
1st Sunday of the month: Pissignano
1st Saturday and Sunday: Arezzo
2nd Sunday of the month: Spoleto
2nd Sunday of the month: Santa Maria degli Angeli
3rd Sunday of the month: Citta’ di Castello
Last Sunday of the month: Perugia
Farmer’s market in Umbria:
2nd Sunday of the month: Perugia
Antes de que te vayas
Trasimeno Blues
http://trasimenoblues.it/en/
From late July to early August you have to catch the Blues!
Antes de que te vayas
Umbria Jazz
https://www.umbriajazz.it/en/
In July in Perugia and the surrounding towns of Trasimeno - SO much fun!